Are You Buttoning Your Suit Correctly? The Complete Guide to Suit Button Etiquette

In the world of tailored menswear, few details reveal a gentleman's sartorial knowledge quite like proper suit button etiquette. This seemingly simple act—buttoning or unbuttoning your jacket—can make the difference between looking polished and appearing careless. Whether you're wearing a WIAI custom-tailored suit or any fine garment, mastering this fundamental rule is essential.

The Golden Rule: Sometimes, Always, Never

The classic suit button rule is elegantly simple yet universally important: "Sometimes, Always, Never." This mnemonic device tells you exactly which buttons to fasten on a three-button suit jacket, reading from top to bottom.

For a two-button suit—the most common and versatile style offered by WIAI—the rule simplifies to "Always, Never." Always button the top button, never button the bottom. This creates the ideal silhouette, allowing the jacket to drape naturally while maintaining structure through the chest and waist.

Why Does This Rule Exist?

Suit construction is an art form perfected over centuries. When master tailors at WIAI craft your made-to-measure jacket, they design it with specific button placement that creates the most flattering silhouette when properly fastened.

Leaving the bottom button unfastened allows:

• Natural movement and comfort when sitting or walking
• Proper drape of the jacket's front panels
• Prevention of pulling or bunching at the waist
• Optimal balance and proportion in your silhouette
• Freedom of movement without straining the fabric

Buttoning the bottom button creates unsightly pulling across the midsection, disrupts the jacket's carefully engineered lines, and restricts your movement—the opposite of what a well-tailored suit should achieve.

Button Rules by Jacket Style

One-Button Suit Jacket

Simple and elegant: always button when standing, unbutton when seated. One-button jackets, popular in modern slim-fit designs and tuxedos, create a sleek, elongated silhouette. WIAI's one-button options are perfect for formal events and contemporary professional settings.

Two-Button Suit Jacket

The most versatile and popular choice: button the top, never the bottom. This style works for virtually any occasion, from business meetings to weddings. WIAI's two-button suits offer timeless sophistication with modern tailoring precision.

Three-Button Suit Jacket

Follow "Sometimes, Always, Never":

• Top button: Optional (button for a more formal look, leave open for casual elegance)
• Middle button: Always button when standing
• Bottom button: Never button

Three-button suits offer a classic, slightly more conservative appearance, ideal for traditional business environments.

Double-Breasted Suit Jacket

Always keep buttoned, even when seated. Double-breasted jackets are designed to remain fastened, as their structure and drape depend on the buttons being secured. This bold, authoritative style makes a powerful statement in any professional setting.

When to Button and Unbutton

Standing

Always button your jacket when standing, whether you're giving a presentation, greeting clients, or simply walking through the office. This maintains the jacket's intended silhouette and projects confidence and professionalism.

Sitting

Always unbutton when you sit down. This is perhaps the most important rule after the button configuration itself. Sitting with your jacket buttoned creates unsightly wrinkles, strains the fabric, and looks uncomfortable—because it is.

The proper sequence: As you approach your chair, smoothly unbutton your jacket with one hand. When you stand, button it again in a single fluid motion. This should become second nature—a subtle gesture that demonstrates sartorial sophistication.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Buttoning the Bottom Button

The most common error. Even with a perfectly tailored WIAI suit, buttoning the bottom button ruins the silhouette and marks you as inexperienced in formal wear.

2. Leaving Everything Unbuttoned

While standing, an unbuttoned jacket appears sloppy and unfinished. Your suit jacket should be buttoned to showcase its tailored fit and structure.

3. Buttoning While Seated

This creates wrinkles, strains seams, and looks uncomfortable. Always unbutton before sitting.

4. Forgetting to Re-button When Standing

After sitting, remember to button your jacket again when you stand. This completes your polished appearance.

The WIAI Difference: Tailored for Perfect Button Placement

When you invest in a custom suit from WIAI, button placement is precisely calculated based on your unique measurements and proportions. Our master tailors consider your height, build, and posture to position buttons at the optimal points for the most flattering silhouette.

This attention to detail ensures that when you follow proper button etiquette, your WIAI suit drapes perfectly, moves with you naturally, and presents an impeccable appearance in any setting.

Vest and Waistcoat Button Rules

When wearing a three-piece suit, the waistcoat follows a similar principle: leave the bottom button unfastened. This tradition dates back to King Edward VII and has remained standard practice ever since. It allows the waistcoat to sit properly and prevents pulling when you sit or move.

Making It Second Nature

Proper suit button etiquette should become an unconscious habit—as natural as straightening your tie or checking your appearance before an important meeting. Practice the motion until it becomes fluid and automatic:

• Stand up → Button your jacket
• Sit down → Unbutton your jacket
• Always leave the bottom button unfastened

Conclusion: Small Details, Big Impact

Mastering suit button etiquette is a small detail that makes a significant impact on your overall appearance. It demonstrates attention to detail, respect for tradition, and understanding of proper menswear conventions—qualities that don't go unnoticed in professional and social settings.

Whether you're wearing a WIAI custom-tailored suit crafted specifically for your measurements or any quality garment, following these simple rules ensures you always look polished, professional, and confident.

Ready to experience the perfect fit? Explore WIAI's collection of made-to-measure suits, where every detail—from button placement to fabric selection—is tailored precisely to you. Because when your suit fits perfectly and you wear it correctly, confidence follows naturally.